Singapore Time Lapse and Pledge

The Lion City from Keith Loutit on Vimeo.

Keith Loutit is a filmmaker who lives in Singapore. "The Lion City" features those crazy new sky trees at Gardens By the Bay near the Marina Bay Sands casino. It also dwells at length on the city's ubiquitous shophouses and HDB towers with real affection for MRT trains. The public spectacles come the most recent National Day celebrations in August. Use the links above to see more of his work.

Scenes from National Day show the arrival of dignitaries, the trooping of armed servicemen and civil guards, and a large display of the stage as citizens recite Singapore's National Pledge, which reads:

We, the citizens of Singapore
Pledge ourselves as one united people
Regardless of race, language, or religion
To build a democratic society on justice and equality
So as to achieve happiness, prosperity, and progress for our nation.

Singapore Grand Prix 2012: Friday Practice

The grandstand along the pit straight of the Marina Bay street circuit.

The Passengers were privileged to score tickets to the Formula One hullabaloo in Singapore last weekend. We only got the chance to see the Friday night practice sessions before Sebastian Vettel raced to victory on Sunday night. However, we did have a perch in the corporate hospitality Sky Suites along the pit straight.

Sebastian Vettel navigates the Marina Bay street circuit during Friday's first practice session.

Though not really relevant to Friday practice sessions our perch had a good look at the eventual finish line and podium. More interestingly, we sat directly opposite the garages for teams Red Bull, McLaren, and Scuderia Ferrari. We could watch the machinations of three of the best racing teams this year. We stayed late and did our best to soak up as much hospitality (read: alcohol) as we could.

Crew attend to Sebastian Vettel's car on Friday night.

Crew attend to Lewis Hamilton's car on Friday night.

 

 

Only the dedicated remain in the hospitality suite after the second Formula One practice session last Friday night in Singapore.

Healthy Signage

Here's a photo one of our mates snapped while walking by Freshness Burger on the ground floor of the Central mall at Clarke Quay here in Singapore. An establishment that promotes its "healthy meals" will sell you a "Butter & Sugar Burger" plus coffee for less than S$2 (1.63 USD/1.00 GBP).

This is the Singapore outlet of the Japanese burger chain that is currently promoting a vinegar drink. I will have to stop in and compare their wares with their Nipponese competitors Mos Burger. If I bring a ten-dollar note to Freshness, I might be able to sample breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Countdown to the Singapore Grand Prix 2012

The only nighttime race of the Formula 1 season returns to Singapore in less than two weeks. The SingTel Singapore Grand Prix will run on 23 September 2012. The circuit goes around the Marina Bay area, and the Passengers will undoubtedly be able to hear the scream of high-powered engines all weekend at our nearby gaffe in Club Street. For photos of the action in 2010 click here.

Urban Density of Singapore

If the entire population of earth was squeezed into a city as dense as [blank], how much land would it need Click the image to enlarge. Source: Per Square Mile.

I have been known to complain about the suburban nature of life in Singapore, especially when we lived near the malls of Novena. Among air-conditioned palaces of commerce complete with multi-story parking garages one misses the thrill of discovery that comes from strolling along the streets from neighborhood to neighborhood. Here in a wealthy city-state where many families own cars and the weather makes it unpleasant to walk too far outdoors pedestrians often get second-tier status. The island can seem like a boring, sprawling landscape to someone familiar with the walkable streets of Manhattan and Central London.

However, as the above graphic from Tim de Chant at Per Square Mile illustrates, Singapore houses a population of 5.35 million on less than 700 square kilometers, making it more dense than London or the five boroughs of New York City. As a modern city the urban fabric simply has better provision for automobile traffic, and the government tries hard to ensure that cars don't overrun the island.

Actually, the population density of Singapore is even more intense than expressed by Per Square Mile, as Tim de Chant acknowledges in comments below his post, because the island maintains a number of nature reserves, reservoirs, and military installations that have not been planted with the ubiquitous government-sponsored, tenant-owned HDB apartment towers. The map above from the CIA Factbook shows built-up areas in grey. The Factobook also provide this satellite view, which shows distribution of settlement.

Japanese Cookies

Couque D'asses cookies on the shelf in Singapore.

Spotted this box of cookies at a Japanese food specialty store underneath MBFC a few months back. The double entendre is probably most quickly apparent to Americans, but I think everyone can join the fun, really. I have no ability to read Japanese so I couldn't possibly comment on the ingredients.

Mashed Potato Machine

ZOMG! I have been in Europe and the US for most of June and July. I totally missed the introduction of mashed potato machines to Singapore. They are in 7-Eleven stores around the island. $1.00 buys a cup of steaming Maggi-brand instant potatoes topped with gravy. I'm sure a device that spouts hot gravy poses no hazards to customers whatsoever. Strangely in our local 7-Eleven on Erskine Road the button for barbecue-flavored potatoes looks like it receives more attention than its regular-flavored counterpart.

At 7-Eleven in Singapore I can buy an ice cream, settle my electric bill, top up my mobile phone, and pay for Jetstar flights I reserved online. Now I can go there for nearly palatable mashed potatoes at the push of a button.

"National Night" in Singapore, says Mentos

It's a viral marketing video fabricated to entice bloggers and news services, but it is funny. Family warning: This video does explain how babies are made. 

In fact, making babies is the entire joke because Singapore, which turns 46 years-old on 9 August 2012, has very publicly been wringing its hands about low birthrates for a while now. Last year after learning that the total fertility rate for 2010 stood at only 1.16 – nowhere near the replacement level of 2.1 – Lee Kuan Yew (Prime Minister of Singapore for its first 25 years) famously warned that an aging Singapore would face Japanese-style stagnation after the burgeoning economic expansion that marked the country's history since independence. Mentos has given the nation's adults a new civic duty.

Update (8 Aug 2012): James Fallows one of our favorite American writers about China and East Asia has picked up on the ad sensation for the Atlantic. Hat tip: The Dish.

MRT Hair-loss Advertisement

Saw this advertisement for Beijing 101 Hair Consultants on the MRT (subway).

Healthy hair brings me closer to my children.

Really?

US Politics via Singapore

Former House Speaker and Georgia congressman Newt Gingrich. Image via NewsOne.

For anyone who didn't believe the 2012 presidential election in the United States was charging full steam ahead in 2011, votes are now underway in the Republican presidential primary. The next round of voting happens in South Carolina on 21 January, and big money is being spent on behalf of candidates jockeying for the nomination. Some of it comes from Singapore.

The casino magnate Sheldon Adelson, CEO of Las Vegas Sands, the company behind the Marina Bay Sands "integrated resort" in Singapore, has put $5 million (£3.26m) of support behind Newt Gingrich, the former Speaker of the House of Representatives. The billionaire's company faced dire economic times in 2008, but the company's gambling ventures here and elsewhere in Asia have proven massively profitable.

Adelson has been transparently active in both American and Israeli politics for several years, and he undoubtedly will not cap his political spending at just $5 million this year.

Jolly Glee Pizza (from Pizza Hut)

Roast chicken, turkey bacon, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce make the Jolly Glee a festive pizza. Notice the cherry, too.

Pizza Hut has a new gimmick for Singaporean customers. Previous gimmick here. Instead of actually making tasty products, Pizza Hut now offers a Jolly Glee pizza. It has all the ingredients you might expect from a Christmas dinner – poultry, pseudo-pork, potatoes, cranberries – plus some you didn't know you wanted. Click the picture to see a larger image and guess what else lurks beneath the lattice of crust. I can spy red peppers and onions, but I am unable to swear that the yellow items are simply yellow peppers. The website says it's pineapple. Not satisfied? Apparently there is also cheese in the crust... and a glacé cherry! I knew this was missing something.

More Christmas Decor

Thidwick (YouTube link) the fiber-optic reindeer makes spirits bright along Marina Bay in Singapore.

As a complement to an earlier post about tropical Christmas decorations, check out the silver reindeer sculptures downtown in Singapore. These whimsical cervids are just outside the new Marina Bay Financial Centre (already colloquially MBFC), overlooking the same bay as the casino and the streets that host the Singapore Grand Prix.

I can see there is a silvery, tinsel-ly artistic attempt here, but on second glance the reindeer actually looks like a rabbit with an impossibly spindly neck and legs with an even more impossible silver lichen rinceaux spewing from his head.

Also it's been rainy in Singapore this month. Today it rained for more than twelve hours straight. Viewers might notice some damp, shiny streets.

Deck the Malls 2011: Sub-Zero

Welcome to another tropical Christmas.

Last year this blog showcased some of the festive decorations at our local mall, and the festooning this year is again baffling enough to warrant another post. I took some pictures on Saturday at Velocity in Novena, one of the numerous malls stationed atop an MRT (subway/underground/metro) station.

The mall starts Christmas season on 11 November. There is no Thanksgiving to hold back Xmas.

The theme at the mall this year is "Sub-Zero Christmas," an even chillier variation on 2010's "White is the Color of Christmas." I am continually bemused at the winter themes on display for customers in a tropical climate, and I am a still surprised by the pervasiveness of a Christian holiday within a country where the largest religion is Buddhism. Of course, Singapore has many, many Christians, and here we live next door to a church. Either credit the country for being inclusive or blame capitalism for cultivating a retail holiday in unlikely soil. I will opt for the latter given all the non-denominational  bedecking.

Shoppers on Level 2 are just about eye-level with a rather threatening penguin.

Alright, no more musing because once again the highlight of Velocity's decorations are the disturbing white animals. Several of them are perched on top of the main awning in the first photo above. Here are some more sculptures that dangle from the ceiling.

The tiny skating rink is back! In the ad copy this year it's called the Velocity Arctic Village. 

Click the link below left to behold a Photoshop disaster.

Queuing Up Trouble: Abercrombie & Fitch in Singapore

Abercrombie & Fitch chose a site close to a mosque for its Singapore store, but in the United States the company has faced allegations that it is hostile to observant Muslims.

American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch is about to open its first store in Singapore in the shopping complex Knightsbridge on Orchard Road. Southeast Asians will soon be able to buy classy clothes from a store that has sold thongs and padded bikini tops to eight-year-olds. As an American, I have a longer acquaintance with the company, and I am not looking forward to having A&F return to my neighborhood. Singaporeans without such a history undoubtedly will queue up to breathe in Abercrombie's fiercely scented air, just as they did for H&M's opening in September just across the street (and continue to do shamelessly).

The store was announced in March, expanding A&F's Asian footprint after opening an outlet in Japan in 2009. From a webpage that pretty much reads like a reprint of Abercrombie's press release:

Abercrombie & Fitch, an Ohio-based Casual Luxury themed brand, promises to deliver the same ‘all-American’ experience – including the young, fun and good-looking ‘store models’ and the same merchandise that is found at its any other flagship stores around the world, reflecting their brand’s heritage, youth and sex appeal with a unique emphasis on quality and store experience.

“We think that South East Asia represents a great opportunity for the brand and Singapore makes a great fit,” said an A&F spokesperson. “Our launch in Singapore is answering an established enthusiasm for A&F, and giving our fan-base a place to go and live the brand.”

The "Casual Luxury" (read: overpriced) brand zealously guards and controls its image and store experience, starting with its opaque shop fronts that eschew the usual large window displays of available merchandise. The Knightsbridge outlet is no exception, placing oversized dark-wooden washboard shutters behind its windows. No doubt they will soon erect billboards overhead emblazoned with oversized black-and-white images of washboard abs. Full marks to Abercrombie for selling so much apparel without actually displaying any clothes. However, the "store models" and employees inside rarely match the dark panelling in the windows. Abercrombie unabashedly peddles a pernicious, privileged white-bread version of what they believe is "all-American," and it has repeatedly and unrepentantly given little consideration to any other members of a very diverse world, and they are now exporting that rigorously enforced look. 

Where to start? How about the minimum $40 million settlement the company agreed to pay in 2004 for denying jobs and promotions to blacks, Asians, and Latinos? In 2009 a UK employment tribunal ruled the company had unlawfully harassed a disabled law student born without her left arm and working in the flagship London store. Singaporean Muslims might want to know about the pending lawsuit of a twenty-year-old Muslim woman who allegedly lost her job at Hollister, a beach-themed Abercrombie spin-off, for wearing a hijab headscarf of the style seen throughout Southeast Asia. The suit was filed this year and adds to cases of the same kind already pending. Chinese Singaporeans will surely want to hear about T-shirts sensitively trading in racial stereotypes in 2002 ("Wong Brothers Laundry Service: Two Wongs Can Make it White"). I want to know if the flagship shop will try to force low-wage shop workers in Singapore to buy and wear very expensive Abercrombie gear. In the US they had to settle yet another lawsuit alleging such practice. Good luck finding out the answers to these questions since in 2010 Abercrombie and Fitch provided "virtually zero" data on its behavior regarding "environment, climate change, human rights, employee relations, finance, governance, and philanthropy."

Some people in Singapore's diverse racial and religious mix end up will want "to go and live the brand," even if the company fails to offer dignified employment here. I am sure that the "brand’s heritage, youth and sex appeal" will attract plenty of business. But I want Singaporeans to know a little bit more about what that heritage is.

The corner location of Abercrombie's Singapore flagship store, soon to be plastered with young, (only?) white flesh. Image site.

NY Times edits Singapore

Marina Bay Sands "Integrated Resort" under construction in July 2010.

The New York Times gave Singapore the 36-hours treatment last week. The popular Travel-section feature summarizes tourism opportunities in locations near and far. I have especially liked the paper's write-ups of St Louis, Hong Kong, and Cork. I concur with the choices of the Singapore Botanic Gardens, the Wild Rocket/Wild Oats restaurant and bar atop Mt Emily, and the shopping experience along Haji Lane. Of course, any travel guide would be remiss not to mention the newly opened "integrated resort" (read: casino) Marina Bay Sands overlooking the Central Business District.

However, many of the other choices in the article seem poorly advised. High tea at the Raffles Hotel is an overpriced endeavor, and walking along Robertson Quay on a Sunday morning followed by a cycle tour sounds like a recipe for heat stroke. Also the Maxwell Road Food Centre has little to recommend it over other hawker centers besides it's proximity to Chinatown. Similarly the Ritz-Carlton Millenia doesn't seem like a terribly interesting hotel choice. Also "Orchard Street" needs to be corrected to read "Orchard Road."

Real Estate Offers: Round 3

Foreigners are eligible to take up a 99-year tenure at Waterview in Tampines.

Waterview is located near the rapidly expanding Changi Business Park.

Here are a few more real estate offers that have been shoved into the Passengers' mailbox in the past few weeks.  Advertisers pay Singapore Post to have postmen distribute these flyers to mailboxes in a particular neighborhood or even throughout the island.  Again, none of these arrive with our address printed on them, and they show little knowledge of whether we are eligible to buy property in Singapore.  I decided to cull the pile of offers down to a trio located in the far east of Singapore near Changi Airport.

Flamingo Valley is about one MRT stop closer to Singapore's Central Business District (CBD) than Waterview.

Builders Frasers Centrepoint Homes advertises their use of the Japanese designer Miyake Masaki Associates.

The Passengers are not eligible to purchase within the Flamingo Valley development because we are not Singaporean citizens nor have we applied to become Permanent Residents, colloquial called PR. Only SCs and PRs are allowed to buy freehold properties or are eligible for the socialized flats built by the Housing Development Board (HDB).  Flamingo Valley is well placed near the enjoyable recreations of East Coast Park with its ocean views and trails for cyclists and skaters. There is also the delicious East Coast Lagoon Food Village.

Move your fabulous family-of-four to NV Residences.

NV Residences is on the other side of eastern Singapore, near Serangoon Harbour rather than East Coast Park. I don't have anything profound to say about its advertised facilities, but the models superimposed against an artist's impression of the impending development seem exceptionally fabulous.

Long Beach Seafood

Mmmmm. Seafood.

 A couple of weeks ago the Passengers accompanied some out-of-town visitors to Long Beach, a seafood restaurant known especially for good chili crab. The dishes did not disappoint us, and the staff at the Dempsey location were very kind to the ten-year-old member of our party. He didn't much like seafood, but he was fascinated by the fish, crabs, and bivalves awaiting their fate in bubbling fish tanks. On the way out we were handed a brochure. Click on the image to see some of the delicacies served here. Some of you might find the dishes tempting; others might think them disturbing.

Fearless beauty queen: the logical accompaniment to fresh seafood.

The front of the brochure features an award-winning spokesmodel. I am not sure how Long Beach found a person who holds fresh shellfish with such poise, but I am certain that is why she was selected. She is listed as Ms Intercontinental and Ms Kimberly Anne Byers. Wikipedia says she won that title in 1994. It remains unclear how America's pageant winner landed a gig with Long Beach, but for some reason, the restaurant has not updated their promotional material since then, despite having opened several additional locations in the last fifteen years. Some of you might find their advertising tempting; others might think it disturbing.

Exams Success

"Let's try APR Formulae for 800, Alex."

The good news came in last week that Passenger H passed her CFA Level 1 exam. It's a reward well earned because for several weeks our apartment looked like this, but perseverance paid off. Of course, as Jonas Salk said, "the reward for work well done is the opportunity to do more." Studying for CFA Level 2 begins soon.

Inculcating the Needy

 

Chinese New Year begins this week, and Singapore will enjoy what counts for a long public holiday (Thursday and Friday).  The Passengers are going to Lombok for some tropical relaxation in Indonesia.  We will be sure to put up a couple of pictures.

As in many cultures, new-year festivities are a chance for new and better beginnings. Chinese traditions associated with the lunar new year include spending time with family, carrying out a massive cleaning of the home, and giving to charity. We received the above solicitation for donations to the Thye Hua Kwan Moral Society tucked inside our gas/electric/water bill from SP Services.

THKMS is a major good-works organization here. They run their own hospital and retirement homes.  We walked past one on Saturday while exploring the old Peranakan neighborhoods around East Coast Road. Donations to the charity are not only tax deductible, but the Inland Revenue of Singapore will automatically factor in the donation when they prepare your annual tax assessment.  Sometimes it helps to think of this island as a family business rather than a city-state.

Thye Hua Kwan Moral Society's appeal for donations.

Be sure to read the above appeal for donations written in English (Click the picture for a larger image.). It's a great example of written English as practiced in Singapore. It is generally technically correct, though occasionally a few articles and nouns get omitted where they would not be used in Chinese syntax. It reads very differently from copy written for British or American non-profits. Sometimes Chinese terms like "ancestor village" receive rather awkward direct translations. Other times older English usage has remained from colonial times: "Granny Yang is at peace too with her present lot..."

When Freshening Can't Wait

Sometimes you end up having a drink at Harry's.

 One can find a Harry's (sound alert) bar just about anywhere in Singapore. I can assure you that almost every new mall, office building, or retail development that opened in the last four years has one of these corporate watering holes. The drinks are just on the wrong side of overpriced. The house wine is usually undrinkable. Harry's Premium Lager is a weak, stale brew. Yet multiple locations regularly host quality live music, and they will most likely have a television tuned to the F1 race, cricket test, or tennis final that you want to see.

Quick! Call the Freshening Singapore Hotline. We haven't a moment to lose.

More importantly, I had to show you all this towelette packet from the Harry's underneath the Esplanade theatres.  It came with some very specific instructions. However, if a freshening emergency does arise, you can call their hotline.

The parent company Harry's Holdings Ltd also operates a boutique hotel, a nightclub, and three restaurants.  They also have a catering business and the license for the Gymboree franchise in Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei.