Marmite Ad

I have spent very little time in London during this trip through England. However, while returning from Leeds to the Home Counties, I traveled along the Victoria line to get myself south of London. On the journey I spied this clever, kinematic advertisement overhead in my Tube carriage.

For the uninitiated, Marmite has been a staple of British life for over one hundred years, the dark, sticky spread made from brewer’s yeast has provided cost-efficient loads of B vitamins and salt to the public for decades, preferably spread thinly across toast at breakfast. I find it a fascinating taste and a great aid against hangovers, but many native Britons find the food’s texture, concept, and taste revolting. Australians vainly promote Vegimite to Marmite haters as a milder alternative. I can hardly tell the difference between the two, and the argument seems only to concern the Poms vs. those "from a Land Down Under." Americans generally abhor the product in all its forms.

Despite, or perhaps because of, this strong taste and distinctive smell Marmite inhabits British culture as both a comfort food and a looking glass into British culture. The company began in Burton-on-Trent, where the English produced many a fine beer and discarded yeast was available in great volumes. Iconic jars of Marmite also provided part of soldiers’ rations in both World Wars, serving vitamins and salt to expeditionary troops. (Read Mark Kurlansky for more about armies’ unyielding need for salt.) The Marmite label and packaging have changed very little over the years, maintaing these associations, and the cheap prices and slight punitive flavor probably reminds Britons of the make-do-and-mend spirit that sustained the country through rationing, civil unrest, and gray winters.

However, Marmite has been expanding their brand in recent years, putting their flavor and imprimatur on potato chips and related snack foods, like cashews. Plus, they have developed a number of brand partnerships and alternative flavors for those who want their yeast extract to taste just a little different. But trust me, the Marmite flavor trounces both champagne and Guinness.

Now I am off on a thirteen-hour flight to Singapore.